Шрифт:
Интервал:
Закладка:
Gorman, Daniel, The Emergence of International Society in the 1920s, Cambridge University Press, 2012.
Marshik, Celia (ed.), The Cambridge Companion to Modernist Culture, Cambridge University Press, 2014.
Miller, Nathan, New World Coming: The 1920s and the Making of Modern America, DaCapo Press, 2004.
Moore, Lucy, Anything Goes: A Biography of the Roaring Twenties, Atlantic, 2009.
Peretti, Burton W., Nightclub City: Politics and Amusement in Manhattan, University of Pennsylvania Press, 2007.
Taylor, D. J., Bright Young People: The Rise and Fall of a Generation 1918–1940, Vintage, 2008.
О том, как школьницы ели парфюм: «Oppose Perfume Eaters», New York Times, 29 January 1924.
«Perfume and Toilet Goods Trades on Solid Basis», The American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review, March 1921.
О реакции торговли на введение «сухого закона»: «A National Menace», The
American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review, June 1921.
«Mi Lady’s Perfumes», Variety, March 1927.
Stefan Zweig, The Post Office Girl, trans. Joel Rotenberg, Sort Of Books, 2009.
«$20,000 Perfume on Truck is Stolen», New York Times, 26 November 1927.
Howard S. Neiman, «The Psychology of Trademarks», The American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review, May 1921.
HABANITA
Рекламу сигарет Abdulla можно посмотреть на: http://tomboystyle.blogspot. co.uk/2014/06/moment-abdulla-advertisements-of-1920s.html, посещение 10 мая 2015 г.
О популяризации сигарет: Allan M. Brandt, The Cigarette
Century: The Rise, Fall, and Deadly Persistence of the Product that Defined America, Basic Books, 2007; Francesca Middleton, Women, Smoking and the Popular Imagination of the 1920s: From Squalor to Glamour, University of London, 2002.
CHANEL № 5
История Chanel № 5: Tilar J. Mazzeo, The Secret of Chanel № 5: The Intimate History of the World’s Most Famous Perfume, HarperCollins, 2010.
Биография Габриель Шанель: Lisa Chaney, Chanel: An Intimate Life, Penguin, 2012; Axel Madsen, Coco Chanel: A Biography, Bloomsbury, 2009; Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, trans. Euan
Cameron, Pushkin Press, 2008; Justine Picardie, Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life, Harper, 2013; Hal Vaughan, Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel’s Secret War, Vintage, 2012.
NUIT DE NOËL
Fred W. Longshaw and Richard E. Thompson, «At the Christmas Ball», performed by Bessie Smith, Preachin’ the Blues, 1925.
«New York Heeds the Call of Fancy Dress», Vogue, American edition, April 15 1922.
BAIN DE CHAMPAGNE
История шампанского: Serena Sutcliffe, A Celebration of Champagne, Mitchell Beazley, 1988.
О пристрастии Эдуарда VII к купанию в ванных с шампанским: Jane Ridley, Bertie: A Life of Edward VII, Chatto & Windus, 2012.
О влиянии «сухого закона» на США: Edward Behr,
Prohibition: Thirteen Years That Changed America, Skyhorse Publishing, 2011; Daniel Okrent, Last Call: The Rise and Fall of Prohibition, Scribner Book Company, 2011.
«Earl Carroll Producer», The Milwaukee Sentinel, 1 November 1926.
«News of «Wild Party» Starts Investigation», Modesto News Herald, 25 February 1926.
О суде над Эрлом Кэрроллом: http://law.justia.com/cases/federal/appellate-courts/F2/16/951/1481403/, посещение 11 мая 2015 г.
Отчет о суде над Эрлом Кэрроллом и приговор: «Earl Carroll on Trial for Perjury in Bathtub Case», The Montreal Gazette, 21 May 1926; “Earl Carroll Will Start for Prison on April 12”, The Pittsburgh Press, 4 April 1927.
Dorothy Parker, «Inventory Poem», Enough Rope Poems, Bony & Liveright, 1926.
Robert Forrest Wilson, Paris on Parade, Bobbs-Merrill, 1925.
LE DANDY
Oliver Herford, The Deb’s Dictionary, Methuen & Co., 1932.
История дендизма в 1920-х годах: Catherine R. Mintler, «From Aesthete to Gangster: The Dandy Figure in the Novels of F. Scott Fitzgerald», The F. Scott Fitzgerald Review, Volume 8, 2010.
О джазовом музыканте Лесли Хатчинсоне и его пристрастии к Chanel № 5, see: Charlotte Breese, Hutch, Bloomsbury, 1999.
Биография Стивена Тенанта: Philip Hoare, Serious Pleasures: Life of Stephen Tennant, Penguin, 1992.
Интервью с правнуком Стивена Тенанта, в котором упоминаются парфюмы Worth: Rebecca Wallersteiner, “The Brightest Young Thing”,
The Lady, 30 November 2001.
О возвращении имени D’Orsay как названия парфюмерного дома в двадцатом веке: http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/D’Orsay – (maison_de_parfum), посещение 11 мая 2015; Nick Groom, The New Perfume Handbook, 2nd edn, Blackie Academic and Professional, 1997.
D’Orsay advertisement for Le Dandy, featured in Vogue, American edition, 13 October 1930.
GARDENIA
Торговые отчеты о возрастающей популярности гардении в парфюмах и косметике: Druggists’ Circular, Volume 80, 1936;
Perfumery and Essential Oil Record, Volume 28, 1937.
Aldous Huxley, Point Counter Point, Doubleday, Doran and Co., 1928.
AMOUR AMOUR; QUE SAIS-JE?; ADIEU SAGESSE
«The Cult of the Nose», Vogue, American edition, 15 May 1925.
«Perfumes and Personality», Arts and Decoration, June 1925.
TUTANKHAMON PHARAOH SCENT
Подробный отчет о египтомании: Bob Brier, Egyptomania: Our Three Thousand Year Obsession with the Land of the Pharaohs, Palgrave Macmillan, 2013.
Dudley S. Corlett, «The Kohl Pots of Egypt», Vogue, American edition, 1 September 1923.
Clara E. Laughlin, So You’re Going to the Mediterranean! And if I Were Going with You These Are the Things I’d Invite You to Do, Houghton Mifflin Company, 1935.
HUILE DE CHALDÉE
О загаре как стильной новинке в 1920-е годы: Alys Eve Weinbaum et al. (eds), The Modern Girl Around the World: Consumption, Modernity, and Globalization, Duke University Press, 2008.
Цитата о сцене в Довиле: «Deauville Diversions (Being the Musings of Miranda)», The Sketch, 2 August 1922 and 30 August 1922.
ZIBELINE
Статистика популярности мехов в этот период: Carol Dyhouse: «Skin Deep: The Fall of Fur», History Today, 22 February 2012.