class="p1">Town and Country

USA Today

United Mainliner Magazine

Vanity Fair

Vogue

Wall Street Journal

Washington Post

Women’s Wear Daily

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Примечания

1

Norman Lebrecht, Who Killed Classical Music?: Maestros, Managers, and Corporate Politics (New York: Citadel Press, 1997), p. 40.

2

«Dress Improvers Downed», The Daily Telegraph (November 2, 1888), p. 2.

3

Princess Pauline Metternich, My Years in Paris (London: Eveleigh Nash & Grayson, 1922), p. 58.

4

Sara Elisabeth Hume, «Charles Frederick Worth: A Study in the Relationship between the Parisian Fashion Industry and the Lyonnais Silk Industry 1858–1889.» Unpublished Master of Arts thesis (SUNY Fashion Institute of Technology, 2003), p. 10.

5

«Empress Elizabeth [sic], Her Tragic Death Last Summer — New Light on Her Life», The New York Times (March 18, 1899), p. 23.

6

«Many Women in Mourning — Closing of Mr. Felix’s Dress-Making Establishment the Cause», The Pittsburgh Press (June 30, 1901), p. 15.

7

Exhibition signage, Reveal or Conceal?/ Dévoiler ou Dissimuler? (Montreal: McCord Museum/Musee McCord, February 22, 2008–January 18, 2009). See also www.musee-mccord.qc.ca/expositions/expositionsXSL.php?lang=1&expoId=47&currSectionId=2

8

Elizabeth Ann Coleman, The Opulent Era: Fashions of Worth, Doucet and Pingat (New York and London: Brooklyn Museum with Thames & Hudson, 1989), p. 29.

9

Standard Designer (November 1896), p. 78.

10

Lourdes Font, «International couture: The opportunities and challenges of expansion, 1880–1920», Business History 54:1 (2012), p. 31.

11

Coleman, p. 146.

12

Sandra Barwick, A Century of Style (London: George Allen & Unwin, 1984), p. 53.

13

Frederic Lees, «The Evolution of Paris Fashions: An Inquiry», The Pall Mall Magazine, vol. XXVII (May-August 1902), p. 116.

14

Font, p. 31.

15

Robert Forrest Wilson, «The House of Drecoll», Vogue (November 15, 1925), p. 34.

16

Paul Poiret, King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul Poiret, transl. by Stephen Haden Guest (Philadelphia & London: J. B. Lippincott Company, 1931), p. 93.

17

Font, pp. 35–36.

18

Ella Adelia Fletcher, The Woman Beautiful: A Practical Treatise on the Development and Preservation of Woman’s Health and Beauty, and the Principles of Taste in Dress (New York: Brentano’s, 1901), p. 410.

19

«Worth Allows Styles of the Days of Empress Eugenie to Suggest Leading Silhouette and Control Richness of Fabrics Used», The New York Times (March 19, 1916), p. X3.

20

Lady Duff Gordon, Discretions and Indiscretions (New York: Frederick A. Stokes Company, 1932), p. 205.

21

Lees, p. 121.

22

«Cheruit Features the Full Skirt, hich, It Is Prophesied, Will Be as Successful as Was the Pannier Skirt», The New York Times (March 15, 1914), p. X2.

23

Guillermo De Osma, Mariano Fortuny: His Life and Work (New York: Rizzoli, 1980), p. 138.

24

Quoted in Stephen Howarth, Henry Poole: Founders of Savile Row (London: Bene Factum Publishing, 2003), p. 90.

25

Major Gen. Sir Frederick Maurice, «Contrasts Signing with 187 °Ceremony», The New York Times (June 29, 1919), p. 3.

26

Valerie Steele, in exhibition brochure for Fashioning the Modern Woman: The Art of the Couturière, 1919–1939 (New York: The Museum at FIT, February 10–April 10, 2004), p. 9.

27

«Bedford Women Vainly Ask For New Style Long Skirts», The New York Times (August 21, 1922), p. 9.

28

«Revolt Against Long Skirts Starts Among Montreal Girls», The New York Times (August 30, 1922), p. 13.

29

Farid Chenoune, A History of Men’s Fashion, transl. by Deke Dusinberre (Paris: Flammarion, 1993), p. 156.

30

«Business: Haute Couture», Time (August 13, 1934), p. 55.

31

«Négligés Come Down to Dinner», Vogue (April 15, 1931), p. 65.

32

L’Offi ciel (May 1930), p. 34.

33

«The Dressmakers of France», Fortune (August 1932), p. 75.

34

«Miss June Collyer», Vogue (November 1, 1934), p. 77.

35

Fashions Art, 1:1 (Fall 1934), p. 16.

36

«The Dressmakers of France», Fortune (August 1932), p. 75.

37

Marjorie Howard, «Of This and That», Harpers Bazaar (February 1933), p. 59.

38

Michael Pick, Be Dazzled! Norman Hartnell, Sixty Years of Glamour and Fashion (New York: Pointed Leaf Press, 2007), p. 10.

39

«A Revival of ‘Lakme’», The New York Times (February 14, 1932), p. X7.

40

«London … War Notes», Vogue (November 1, 1939), p. 71.

41

«Soutenir le commerce de luxe est le devoir de tous les Français», L’Art et la Mode (May 1940), p. 11.

42

Lou Taylor, «Paris Couture 1940–1944», in Juliet Ash and Elizabeth Wilson (eds), Chic Thrills (Berkeley and Los Angeles: University of California Press, 1993), p. 130.

43

See «Disciplining the Body, Language and Style», in Eugenia Paulicelli, Fashion Under Fascism, Beyond the Black Shirt (Oxford and New York: Berg, 2004), pp. 57–67.

44

Robert Daoust, Fashion or ration: Hartnell, Amies and dressing