for the Blitz, podcast link at www. nationalarchives.gov.uk/podcasts/fashion-or-ration. htm.

45

Ibid.

46

«Fashion is Colour», Vogue (March 1, 1941), pp. 49–56.

47

Daoust.

48

«The Measure of the Hem Line», Harper’s Bazaar (March 1947), p. 188.

49

«Fashion», Script (May 1947), p. 33.

50

Quoted in Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Christian Dior (New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1996), p. 13.

51

1939–1946 Special Operations Executive: Personnel Files — Edwin Hardy Amies, doc. ref. HS 9 29/2. www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/releases/2003/april28/popup/hs9_29_2a.htm

52

Hardy Amies, Just So Far (London: Collins, 1954), p. 54.

53

Bernadine Morris, «Valentina, a Designer of Clothes For Stars in the Theater, Dies at 90», The New York Times (September 15, 1989), p. B5.

54

«Coat and Suit Recovery Board, N. Y. Dress Institute, NRDGA, Union Offi cials and Others Pledge Cooperation», Women’s Wear Daily (April 8, 1942), p. 4.

55

Chenoune, p. 204.

56

«Styles for Men Far from Somber», The New York Times (September 24, 1942), p. 29.

57

Lee Rhodes, «Where Can I Go To Meet a Man?», Charm (May 1951), p. 136.

58

«The Well-Turned Look», Harper’s Bazaar (October 1953), p. 197.

59

«Suits with Their Own Winter Coats», Harper’s Bazaar (September 1953), p. 237.

60

«Essence of a Wedding», Vogue (May 1, 1950), p. 100.

61

«And So On into the Fifties», Vogue (February 1, 1950), p. 204.

62

«Paris Directory: Names in the News», Vogue (March 1, 1950). p. 5.

63

Ibid., p. 4.

64

Ibid.

65

«Paris Collections: One Easy Lesson», Vogue (March 1, 1954), p. 101.

66

«They See You This Way», Vogue (September 1, 1950), p. 155.

67

Ibid.

68

«From the Italian Collections, Casual Clothes», Vogue (September 1, 1951), p. 247.

69

«Italian Collections Notebook», Vogue (September 15, 1952), p. 154.

70

See, for example, «Italy Gets Dressed Up», Life (August 20, 1951), pp. 104–112.

71

Esquire’s Handbook for Hosts (New York: Grosset & Dunlap, 1953), p. 278.

72

Bernadine Taub, «Norell Says Conformity is a Drag on Fashion», Women’s Wear Daily (April 21, 1959), pp. 1 and 5.

73

«Fashion Extra», The Times (January 20, 1967), p. 13.

74

Marylin Bender, «The New Society, Young and Daring, Swings Into Style», The New York Times (December 14, 1964), p. 47.

75

Ibid.

76

Marylin Bender, «The Fashion Decade: As Hems Rose, Barriers Fell», The New York Times (December 9, 1969), p. 63.

77

Prudence Glynn, «A Throw-Away Line», The Times (February 7, 1967), p. 13.

78

Jessica Daves, «Paris: Yes-s and No-s in the spring collections», Vogue (March 15, 1962), p. 93.

79

«Top Halves», The Times (May 6, 1968), p. 7.

80

«Ever-rising skirts», The Times (January 6, 1967), p. 13.

81

«The Boutique Idea in America», Vogue (March 15, 1964), p. 122.

82

Quoted in Jean Stein with George Plimpton (eds), Edie: An American Biography (New York: Knopf, 1982), p. 296.

83

Gloria Emerson, «Balenciaga’s Techniques Art Still Unmatched», The New York Times (February 3, 1968), p. 18.

84

«Crahay’s First Collection For Lanvin Is a Success», The New York Times (January 30, 1964), p. 21.

85

«This Woman Is You», Harper’s Bazaar (September 1965), p. 250.

86

«Where is Paris Going?», Harpers Bazaar (March 1967), p. 165.

87

Carrie Donovan, «Dior Collection by Marc Bohan, Successor to St. Laurent, Is a Hit», The New York Times (January 27, 1961), p. 1.

88

Gloria Emerson, «Prettiest Clothes in Paris By Marc Bohan for Dior», The New York Times (July 30, 1965), p. 28.

89

Jessica Daves, «Paris light-struck», Vogue (March 1, 1960), p. 116.

90

Angela Taylor, «1964 — The Year When Everyone Had Fun With Fashion», The New York Times (January 1, 1965), p. 23.

91

«Sarah Miles», Vogue (August 1, 1964), p. 63.

92

Robert Alden, «French Are Welcoming New Italian Designers», The New York Times (May 12, 1962), p. 12.

93

Gloria Emerson, «Capucci: the Bravest Designer in All of Paris», The New York Times (July 31, 1967), p. 31.

94

Carrie Donovan, «American Collections for Spring», The New York Times (December 10, 1960), p. 16.

95

Stein, p. 296.

96

«New York: What a joy is Giorgio!», Vogue (April 1, 1969), p. 254.

97

«The lengths the wig craze can go to …», The Times (October 28, 1966), p. 13.

98

Prudence Glynn, «A wardrobe of lengths», The Times (October 14, 1969), p. 13.

99

Bernadine Morris and Barbra Walz,